I started with some washed lightweight 4 oz. Linen and used the rectangle cut patters shown similar to those in tutorials, like Katafalk’s and Casa de Kissa’s blogs. However, mine is a slight variation since I had continuous yardage of fabric much wider salvage to salvage. It reminds me of cutting out the snowflakes or repeated patterns on a piece of paper.  There is support for including the sleeve and body in the collar presented in The First Book of Fashion, see Reconstructing a Schwarz Outfit by Jenny Tiramani. I will probably try out cuts where the body and sleeve are separate in the future; similar to those discussed in “Patterns in Fashion 4” and “How to pleat a shirt in the 15th century. In: Archaeological Textiles Review 54, 2012, 79-91.” (Nutz) 

Once cut I the fabric, I stitched the seams in the back and roll hemmed the raw edge of the neck and sleeves using the sewing machine. I left the rest unsewn while completing the smocked pleating on the neck and sleeve collars. I used a pleating method and honeycomb smocking technique, as described in my honeycomb smocking demo and apron posts. The honeycomb smocking and pleats stopped short 3/4 inch from the edge to allow the cuff seam and collar opening.