Two 15th Century Style Pleated Hemd / Chemise

I created two separate slightly different versions of late 15th-century German-style chemises for a friend of mine, a late 15th c. honeycomb smocked German-style hemd/chemise and pleated smock/chemise with embroidered front and back panel. My friend wore the first one at the event of her elevation announcement and the second at her elevation ceremony.

Late 15th c. Honeycomb Smocked German Style Chemise

I used 4 oz white and black linen in the first hemd. The front and back rectangle panels were pleated, and honeycomb smocked using the technique presented here. I used a small pleat size of 1/4 inch. The seams were machine sewn, and I finished the gores and flat fell of the seams by hand.

Late 15th c. German Pleated Smock with Embroidered Front and Back Panel

I used 3.5 oz linen and a similar square pattern for this late 15th-century chemise as the first. I used a pleating machine to pleat the front and back rectangular panels. Then using a special technique, I machine embroidered the gold basket weave pattern, taking care not to smash the pleats using clear heat away interfacing. I machined sewed the seams, and I finished the gores and seam treatments by hand.

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