I created two separate slightly different versions of late 15th-century German-style chemises for a friend of mine, a late 15th c. honeycomb smocked German-style hemd/chemise and pleated smock/chemise with embroidered front and back panel. My friend wore the first one at the event of her elevation announcement and the second at her elevation ceremony.
Late 15th c. Honeycomb Smocked German Style Chemise
I used 4 oz white and black linen in the first hemd. The front and back rectangle panels were pleated, and honeycomb smocked using the technique presented here. I used a small pleat size of 1/4 inch. The seams were machine sewn, and I finished the gores and flat fell of the seams by hand.
Running straight stitch dot marks, 1/4 inch apart.Running straight stitch between the dots. Running straight stitch with dots mostly removed.Quarter-inch spot embroidered honeycomb pleats for the front and back panels.Honeycomb smocking progress.A black linen band is attached to the top of the pleats.Finished front and back panel dipped in potato starch.Finished panel.
Late 15th c. German Pleated Smock with Embroidered Front and Back Panel
I used 3.5 oz linen and a similar square pattern for this late 15th-century chemise as the first. I used a pleating machine to pleat the front and back rectangular panels. Then using a special technique, I machine embroidered the gold basket weave pattern, taking care not to smash the pleats using clear heat away interfacing. I machined sewed the seams, and I finished the gores and seam treatments by hand.
Pulling a cross thread to get a straight edge cut.Cut along the line.Pleating machine loaded with thread.Using a pleating machine along the top and arms.Drawing out the plan, which consisted of two large rectangles for the body and two small for the arms, throw in some armpit gussets.Sample machine embroidery patterns.The pleating machine pleats very small tighHand stitching the edge in gold.Hand stitching the edge of the pleats.Machine embroidery technique, using an iron away interfacing keeps the stitches from smashing the pleats.Came out pretty good, my pattern line up was a little off, so I filled in by hand.I sewed a linen tape to the back of the embroidery, little crooked there.Finished front view of the chemise.Side view of the chemise.Back view of the chemise.Hopefully I will update this front facing picture of the finished chemise with a picture of my friend wearing it.
